Fire Island's Siren Call to the Gays

In spring, a gay man's fancy turns toward the beach. The whole of Fire Island extends for 32 miles a few miles off the south coast of Long Island, east of New York City. Only two of its towns - Fire Island Pines and Cherry Grove - are predominantly gay. But their reputation for fun, glamor, music, muscle and, yes, sex, have universally made the name "Fire Island" synonymous with "gay."

This summer promises to be one of the hottest on record, regardless of the weather. Both communities have seen enormous changes recently that have attracted a new generation of gay men and brought in visitors from around the world. The two towns are separated by a quarter-mile of federally protected national seashore universally known as the Meat Rack. The Grove long predates the Pines; it was already known among Manhattan's glitterati as a gay enclave by the 1920s.

The Pines didn't exist until the 1950s, but by the 1970s it had eclipsed the Grove in size and reputation. The Grove is a bit funkier, more lesbian-centric and ethnically diverse; whereas the Pines is considered one of the most glamorous (and, by some, socially formidable) gay enclaves in the world. High real estate values in both towns, however, have caused a certain convergence, with many younger gay men rediscovering the Grove, while the Pines has been invigorated by new ownership of much of the commercial harborfront property.

Fire Island is unique in that cars are not allowed, and the only way to get there is via a ferry service. Also, unlike other well-known gay resorts such as Provincetown or Palm Beach, it strives to retain its private, intimate feel. This doesn't mean that visitors aren't encouraged; rather, that arranging a trip and accommodations requires a lot more footwork and planning. It is nearly impossible to go through a normal travel agent. But with a little bit of diligence and some Internet searching, you can map out a weekend or weeklong stay that promises to be one of the most memorable vacations you will ever take. For a more complete resource, consult my own Q Guide to Fire Island, published by Alyson and available online at amazon.com and other book purveyors.

Fire Island differs from similar resorts not only in its relative remoteness but also its communications. Both communities have Wi-Fi, but it can be spotty and vary according to weather conditions. As for cell phones, well, use a land line when you can. Although service is improving, the lack of local antennae means a constant search for hot spots.

Getting There

If you're coming from somewhere along the Northeast, your best bet is Amtrak to New York's Penn Station, where you just walk downstairs to the Long Island Railroad and buy a round-trip ticket to Sayville. If you're coming via air, try to land at either LaGuardia or JFK. From JFK, take the AirTran monorail, which lets you off steps away from the Long Island Railroad, where you board a train to Sayville. The best airport by far is MacArthur, a small regional airport only a short cab or car-service ride away from the ferry terminal. You can also take a local car service to Sayville; for three or more people, this is not expensive.
At the Sayville train station, there are vans waiting to take passengers to the ferry terminal, where there are adjoining slips for the Pines and the Grove. Be sure to check http://www.SayvilleFerry.com for the most recent schedule. The Long Island Railroad may be coming to an agreement (finally!) on a "day tripper" package from Penn Station that will include round-trip train ticket, taxi and ferry. Check the LIRR's website, http://www.mta.info/lirr for updates and updated schedules.

An alternative to the train is a bus that departs from various locations in Manhattan on Friday morning early (around 7 a.m.) and meets the 5:50 p.m. Sunday ferry from both communities for the trip back to the city. Check http://www.islanderstravel.com for updated schedules. Dog owners don't have to crate their pets. The owners of the Pavilion and Ciel are also planning a summer bus from Chelsea on Saturdays and Sundays. Check http://www.ThePinesFireIsland.com for updates.

Once on Fire Island, you'll have to get your bags to house on foot. If you've rented through a local real estate broker, ask him to meet you at the ferry dock or make sure you have access to the house's red wagon or wheelbarrow, the main means of carting heavy objects on the boardwalks. And be sure to get specific directions to the house.

Other than on foot along the beach, or, for the more adventurous, in the winding forest paths of the Rack, the only way to get between the Pines and the Grove is via a water taxi. These run between about 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. summer weekends, ending much earlier weekdays. Be sure to call the dispatcher before waiting at the harbor for a taxi: 631-665-8885. You can also take a taxi from the Pines to Sailor's Haven to visit the Sunken Forest, the only primeval forest on the U.S. Atlantic seashore, and, like the rest of Fire Island, a place of extraordinary beauty. It's about a 20-minute walk on the other side of the Grove.

Where To Stay

As noted, transient accommodations are limited, so be sure to plan ahead, especially if you're coming during one of the big weekends (Memorial Day, July Fourth, Pines Party, Ascension Party, Labor Day). Private homeowners often make their houses available for rent by the week via the local real estate brokers. These are easy to find on the Web and are eager to serve you. A weekly rental with shared rooms will be the same or a little cheaper than commercial accommodations. And remember: You're never more than a five-minute walk from the beach wherever you are.

Hotel Ciel
631-597-6500, ext. 35
http://www.thepinesfireisland.com

Last year, three men bought the bulk of the harborfront commercial property from Eric von Kuersteiner, who still produces Ascension Party Weekend. They quickly set about making broad changes to the existing properties. The only hotel in the Pines, Ciel's size, height and construction (the only cement building) dominate the harbor. The hotel will be undergoing a thorough renovation, but the new owners have already made changes in amenities and d�cor.

The Madison
631-597-6061
http://www.TheMadisonFI.com

Only steps from the harbor, the most luxurious guesthouse in the Pines is a gorgeous, beautifully appointed complex with extensive landscaping, pool, hot tub and every possible amenity, including kitchen facilities.

Pines Bluff Overlook
631-597-3064
http://www.PinesBluffOverlook.com

A bit farther down the beach, this enormous house offers ocean views and a variety of rooms, pool, rooftop hot tub and kitchen facilities.

Belvedere Guest House
631-597-6448
http://www.BelvedereFireIsland.com

This bayfront Grove complex is the most famous building on all of Fire Island. The Venetian-inspired design comprises faux campaniles, a palazzo, terraces, "classical" statuary, fountains - you name it - plus gym, pool, hot tub. Rooms vary widely in size and price. Men-only.

Cherry Grove Beach Hotel
631-597-6600
http://www.GroveHotel.com

The largest hotel on the entire island dominates the downtown Grove as part of the complex that includes the Ice Palace and an enormous pool. Steps away from all the shops, restaurants and the beach, it is in the middle of everything. This can sometimes mean a noisy night; if you're up for some serious partying, this is nonstop fun.

Dune Point
631-597-6261
http://www.DunePoint.com

The charming Grove B&B is near town and overlooks the ocean. It has all the amenities, including kitchen facilities. Some units have a private deck, and there's a private bungalow.

Where To Party

Pavilion: This Pines institution, recently rebuilt from the ground up and then renovated for better acoustics and crowd flow, is world famous as one of the most coveted spots for Circuit DJs from around the world. The dance floor is vast, the ceiling high, and when it's crowded, the temperature rises; no man keeps his shirt on here. DJs this summer include Manny Lehman, Twisted Dee, Paulo, Micky Friedmann, Alyson Calagna, Tracy Young and Horse Meat Disco from London (who's also headlining Pines Party). There are plans for themed weekends, including bears and college students.

Glo Lounge: The site for High Tea is a long bar above the Pavilion. It's also home to the Pines' Friday night Underwear Party, where nooks and crannies can come in handy.
Sip N Twirl: This popular Pines nightspot is in the two-story commercial property immediately to the west of the harbor. As the name implies, there's a bar area and a dance floor. Not as large as the Pavilion, there's no cover and is popular for early dancing. Promoter James Corvino will be hosting a Friday night party that promises raunchy go-go dancers and other naughty treats.

Blue Whale: The outdoor deck of this popular restaurant becomes overrun with hundreds of men every afternoon for one of Fire Island's most enduring institutions, Low Tea. There's dancing inside the emptied-out restaurant, and plenty of dishing outside. Also check out the pool area between the Blue Whale and the Pavilion, which has become a cool South Beach-type hangout with blender drinks and special events, such as "Dive-In Movie" screenings. As befits the Pines, there's also a well-equipped gym in the same area.

The Ice Palace: This institution has long dominated the Grove scene. It offers dancing on weekends. New York slutmeister Daniel Nardicio presides over the infamous Friday night Underwear Party. Nardicio (who is bringing back his "Home for Wayward Boys" to a Grove house) will be hosting concerts by Sandra Bernhard, Kat Deluna and Peaches. If you're lucky, you'll experience one of the Ice Palace's outrageous drag shows.

Cherry's: This bayside restaurant-bar has regular drag shows (drag is very big in the Grove) and has hosted porn stars. Expect to join in the Broadway songs.

Tides: This popular Grove bar (formerly the Monster) has regular cabaret performers and a 50-seat theater.

Shopping, Eating, Getting Off, and Special Events

Because the commercial area is so limited, Fire Island is not a shopper's paradise. That said, both towns have nifty clothing stores that offer hip and sexy duds, such as Oak in the Pines. As to be expected, merchandise leans toward shorts and bathing suits. A few stores (such as Summer Solstice, above Pines Pantry) sell pleasant and unique gifty knickknacks.

Both communities have some very good restaurants. To name a few: Jumping Jacks in the Grove offers casual seafood in the only place on the entire island directly facing the ocean. Floyd's is a popular Grove harborfront coffee shop-type restaurant, great for sandwiches and breakfast. There are also two pizzerias and other casual restaurants in the Grove. As for the Pines, the Pines Bistro has great pizza and good food served outside. Almond, an upscale restaurant in Manhattan and the Hamptons, overhauled the menu at the venerable Blue Whale last summer. Canteen offers great coffee and sandwiches.

Like everything else on Fire Island, food has to be brought to the ferry dock and then transported by boat. This means high prices, which is part of the reason why so many prefer to cook their meals. Both towns have grocery stores, with the Pines Pantry and Peter's Meat Market notable for variety and quality. Not surprisingly, both towns are well served by liquor stores.

Sex: For many people, the words "Fire Island" are synonymous with recreational sex. Although the AIDS epidemic put a dent in the nonstop orgy of the '70s, there's still plenty of that around, if you know where to look. The Rack, the wooded area between the Pines and Grove, has men cruising day and (especially) night, unless it rains. At night, douse yourself with mosquito repellent. There are also plenty of private parties;
Email [email protected] for A-Listy house parties in the Pines - and keep your ears open at Tea and elsewhere. Or make your own party!

See the noiZe calendar in the back of this issue for information about Pines Party, the Invasion, Black Out and Ascension Weekend. Other notable events include the Fire Island Dance Festival, July 15-17, which brings in major companies for a comprehensive sampler of contemporary dance in a spectacular bayfront Pines setting; IndepenDANCE and Bay Dance, both held in the Pines July Fourth Weekend; and the Miss Fire Island Contest, since 1966 one of the oldest, most famous and popular drag competitions in the world, held in mid-September at the Ice Palace. But every summer weekend on Fire Island is full of parties, dances, benefits, performances and plenty of fun. Once you're there, you'll see why there's been so much hoopla and such an aura about this magical place - and why it's all fully justified.