July 25, 2011
Haute Korean Moves Into NYC's Chanterelle Space
Robert Doyle READ TIME: 3 MIN.
NEW YORK, NY - Tucked away in the side streets of Apgujeong lies a cozy little restaurant that produces sci-fi Korean cuisine. Jung Sik Yim, the master chef behind Jung Sik, brings the innovations of French haute and new Spanish movements into the Korean realm while staying true to big, bold Korean flavors.
It's white-tablecloth fine dining, but it shuns the stuffy service, presentation-before-taste mindset. The Seoul-based restaurant has made a name for itself with unusual combinations of flavors and high-end ingredients, and the 55-seat TriBeCa restuarant located within the former Chanterelle space in Tribeca will be as inventive.
The Seoul-based restaurant is popula r among people who are trying Korean food for the first time but are afraid of starting with authentic local tastes.
With plates that appear as if they have been devised by a magician with the absurdity of a mischievous child, Chef Yim's post-modern presentation displays a passion for the classic and the current constructed with only the freshest of ingredients. The school of molecular gastronomy with its foams, immersion circulators and savory ice creams has been notorious for scaring off diners. Here taste is the priority and molecular techniques are simply tools to bring a sense of whimsy and magic to the table.
Some of the experimental dishes on his menu include items like Ginseng Field, rich blends of foie gras and meoru and a local mountain grape create the ground for a a Dali-esque landscape of green shaved pistachios and a forest of candied ginseng trees. One creation, simply entitled Egg, comes in a giant egg-shaped covered bowl. The star of the dish is delicately coddled and floats in a kimchi sauce with a parmesa n foam and shaved asparagus. Kimchi, eggs and cheese is bountiful flavor combination.
Five Senses Pork Belly is a slowly cooked sous-vide in double digits of hours where it remains basting in its own juices then seared so the outside is crispy while the rest literally melts away. Placed on top of pureed potatoes, pickled greens and topped with peppers, this morsel pleasantly attacks every single taste bud with so much intensity that it begs to be eaten in small bites.
Chef Yim's dishes are a celebratory feast for all the senses, creating beautiful edible works of art. Whilst maintaining traditional Korean philosophy through food, the menus at Jung Sik have evolved to encompass various modern cooking techniques. His experience in Western cooking has undoubtedly played a significant part in developing his interpretations of traditional Korean dishes in his own unique style.
Apart from experimenting with different produce and cooking methods, Yim also draws inspiration from his surroundings and incorporates a distinct sense of place into each offering.
Chef Yim Jung Sik began his culinary journey during his army days. His talent was recognized by the commanding officer who made him his personal chef. The experience inspired Yim to learn to cook professionally, eventually leading him to the renowned Culinary Institute of America, where he was introduced to the intricacies of fine Western cooking.
This was followed by apprenticeships at leading New York restaurants Aquavit and Bouley. In 2007, he relocated to Spain where he apprenticed at 2 star Michelin-rated Zuberoa followed by a stint at 3 star Michelin-rated Akelarre. He returned to Seoul and in February, 2009 he opened his near-eponymous restaurant Jung Sik Dang instantly wowing gourmands with his innovative take on what he termed "New Korean". The New York Times states: "It was only a matter of time before Korean cuisine got the nouvelle treatment, and a pioneer in this growing movement is Jung Sik Dang."
Opening in New York this Fall, 2011, Jung Sik offers a fine dining "New Korean" experience located at 2 Harrison Street at Hudson Street in Tribeca.
For more information visit www.jungsikdang.com
Long-term New Yorkers, Mark and Robert have also lived in San Francisco, Boston, Provincetown, D.C., Miami Beach and the south of France. The recipient of fellowships at MacDowell, Yaddo, and Blue Mountain Center, Mark is a PhD in American history and literature, as well as the author of the novels Wolfchild and My Hawaiian Penthouse. Robert is the producer of the documentary We Are All Children of God. Their work has appeared in numerous publications, as well as at : www.mrny.com.