September 18, 2011
Going South: A Gay Travel Guide To South America
Kevin Mark Kline READ TIME: 5 MIN.
I was fascinated by my friend's description of his native Brazil, specifically the city of S�o Paulo where he grew up. He talked glowingly of the gay culture and the massive Gay Pride celebration that occurs annually-one of the largest in the world. I have to admit, I was intrigued and decided that South America should be the focus of my next article.
Here are the highlights:
ARGENTINA
Capital: Buenos Aires
Major Cities: Cordoba, Rosario and La Planta
The diversity of this country is endless, from the glacial Patagonian Andes with its jagged peaks, to the magnificent beauty of Igua�u Falls, lush rainforest wilderness and vast pampas where traditional gauchos still roam. The most progressive of all of the Latin American countries; it was the first to legalize same-sex marriage in 2010, so naturally it has a large and sophisticated gay culture. If you want to experience a sophisticated metro- politan lifestyle, the capitol city of Buenos Aries has what you want. Filled with a rich colonial history (it's termed the Paris of South America), world-class arts, native food and wines, you can get lost in it's culture-as a delightful bonus, some of the most beautiful men you will ever see reside here. The city is divided into 48 barrios, look for Barrio Norte, Palermo Viejo and San Telmo for the strongest gay presence.
BOLIVIA
Capitol: Bolivia has two, Sucre is the constitutional capitol and La Paz is the secondary administrative
Major Cities: Santa Cruz, El Alto, Cochabamba.
Largely conservative with deep Catholic roots this is not the most supportive environment for the gay traveler. There is a burgeoning gay scene in La Paz and Santa Cruz and recent activist organizations such as Adesproc Libertad GLBT in La Paz are making headway. Geographically Bolivia runs in the extremes; it is landlocked by the high Andean mountains, desert high plains abound and it holds the world's highest navigable lake, Titicaca. Its hills contain some of the riches silver mines in the world, which is in stark contrast with it's extreme poverty-the annual income is below $3200.
BRAZIL
Capital: Brasilia
Major Cities: S�o Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, Belo Horizonte and Recife
One of the largest countries in the world and one of the most diverse, with geography that ranges from the lush tropics of the Amazon's steamy climate, to the semi-arid northeast, this land of stark contrasts is one of the most progressive-with flourishing gay scenes in most major cities. S�o Paulo, the third largest metropolitan area in the world, sports the largest gay pride event with over 2 million visitors. Enjoy a caipirinha on the beaches of Ipanema, dive the numerous wrecks alone the coastline, lose yourself in the Amazonian backwaters (lets hope not), or in the cultural sophistication of their world-class colonial cities (lets hope so).
COLOMBIA
Capital: Bogota
Major Cities: Medellin, Cali, Barranquilla, Cartagena
When you think of Colombia, what comes to mind? It's bucolic green valleys, golden beaches, snow-capped mountains or it's historic culture represented by colonial fortresses such as Cartagena, with its quaint, cobblestone streets? Probably not-if you're like most of us in the U.S., Colombia has a public relations problem because of its violent history, especially in relation to the coca trade so tied there. The best place to find gay culture is in the capitol city of Bogot�, with literally hundreds of gay and gay-friendly bars strewn all across the city, it is also home to the county's first LGBT Center, located in the Chipinero neighborhood. Medellin is the second-largest city and has a decent gay scene, too (it and Bogota both have had gay pride parades for the past fewyears).
ECUADOR
Capital: Quito
Major Cities: Guayaquil, Cuenca, Machala
In the not-so-distant-past, 1997 to be exact, homosexuality was punishable by prison time-thankfully in 1998 their constitution was amended. Ecuador is a condensed, diverse-tasting menu for South America's bounty including its Andean volcanic and glacial beauty, more jungles and the Galopagos Islands, the jewel that inspired Charles Darwin. Quito has the largest gay presence, (look for the Mariscal district), with a respectable scene in Guyaquil. Both have numerous gay or gay-friendly clubs, coffeehouses, restaurants, hotels and saunas.
FALKLAND ISLANDS
Cities- East Island: Stanley, Goose Green - West Island: Port Howared, Weddell
Just off the tip of Cape Horn, this mostly uninhabited group of 700 islands contains two main islands called East and West Falkland. Not many gays, but if you want to see penguins, this is the place for you-it's just a hop, skip and a jump from Antartica so dress accordingly!
PARAGUAY
Capital: Asuncion
Major Cities: Ciudad de Este, San Lorenzo
More natural beauty here, without much of the typical tourist trappings, this is the place to be if you want to get back to nature in South America. It is not the place however, to get caught "au natural" with your lover, another country where they still can toss you in jail for having sex with another male. Having said this, the capital city Asuncion does have a stalwart gay presence, with two dance clubs, saunas and-believe it or not-two exclusively gay karaoke bars (lord help me).
PERU
Capital: Lima
Major Cities: Arequipa, Callao, Trujillo, Cusco
This is the pre-Columbian cradle for the once-vast Incan Empire's diverse and rich history. Hike the Inca Trail through the sacred valley, trek the mountain portion to the mythic city of Machu Picchu, with its stunning vistas. Explore the colonial cities of Cusco and Lima and take the time to book a flight over the epic Nasca lines. There are other well-known destinations like, Lake Titicaca, Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Paracas and the Amazon rainforest. The "gayest" presence is in the Miraflores neighborhood in the capitol city Lima, with over 10 clubs, three saunas, and even four gay hotels.
The website: lima.queercity. info has the best information for your visit to the city.
SURINAME
Capital: Paramaribo
Major City: Nieuw Nickerie
Not the place to walk hand in hand according to my research but there is a community there. With waterfalls, rivers, cliffs, glades and an amazing array of flora and fauna, Suriname is a paradise for the adventurous nature lover in you. Look for the only gay caf�, which is called Caf� XPO, where the community is centered and you will find the best information.
TRINIDAD
Capital: Port-of-Spain
Major Cities: Chaguanas, San Fernando
Homosexuality is illegal in Trinidad and Tobago and gay visitors are not officially welcome-but when the heck has that ever stopped us? The scene here is centered in Port of Spain and there are a few bars/nightclubs and several "mixed" places to see and be seen.
URUGUAY
Capital: Montevideo
Major Cities: Punta Del Este, Salto, Paysandu, Las Piedras
Beaches, beaches, beaches - that is the word of the day for Uraguay! It may be tiny, but it is very progressive for gays and lesbians and the first to introduce civil unions. Montevideo is home to half of the country's population and has the strongest gay presence. This is a historic city and though it has a run-down faded feel, it is glorious and low key, especially the Rio de la Plata portion of the old city.
VENEZUELA
Capital: Caracas
Major Cities: Maracaibo , Valencia, Barquisimeto
Like many of the countries in South America, this is "machismo" problem. Consensual sex is legal for gays but don't expect a pat on the back for it. Oil-rich Venezuela is wealthy not only for its "black gold," but because of its natural wonders as well-colossal tepuis (sandstone formations) of Caniama National Park, the islands of Los Roques, the world's highest waterfall, Angel Falls and the ancient tribes that still wander their Amazonian forests give this land an ancient untouched feel.
ourakcha. com/gay-venezuela
By and large most of your touring in South America should be easy and unharrassed- and as long as you are aware of your surroundings, you should be fine. It is as varied as any continent can be and traveling there is not unlike trekking across the U.S. as far as distances go. Prices there range from very inexpensive to moderate-this will be a trip south of several borders that you will never forget!
