Brotherly Love: Looking Beyond the Slogans in Philadelphia

With the recent adoption of marriage equality in Pennsylvania, this summer LGBT Philadelphians celebrate new liberties in a city where the first patriots laid the foundation for America's independence. In that spirit, in 2014, LGBT Philadelphians (and those throughout Pennsylvania) expect to proclaim that they've achieved civil rights.

When you visit here, it doesn't hit you that way - not at first blush. There are slogans everywhere that tell a different story.

Consider this slogan by Visit Philly, the city's tourism office: printed in cursive scrawl, it's an ardent 21st century take on William Penn's 17th century founding of Philly as the "City of Brotherly Love." It reads "With Love, Philadelphia XOXO." Or you might take a fancy to this slogan, also trademarked by Visit Philly, created just for LGBT visitors. It reads "Philadelphia - Get Your History Straight and Your Nightlife Gay."

A movement definitely is afoot. After this summer, a new slogan might replace them all - "Philly: Home of Hard-Won LGBT Freedoms." Yes, there are numerous upcoming festivals that trumpet all that is free about gay life here (more on these in a moment). Looking beyond the slogans, one sees this is a rough and tumble political town, and the gay community is embattled over opposition to their civil rights.

"The winds of political change are shifting," said Malcolm Lazin, executive director of the Philadelphia-based Equality Forum. "We're seeing less opposition nationally to LGBT civil rights than in previous years," he said, noting that Pennsylvania will see a positive upturn similar to the one in Arizona that forced the hand of Gov. Janice K. Brewer when she vetoed a controversial anti-gay bill in February. "All these milestones contribute to a tipping point in favor of LGBT equalities in Pennsylvania," Lazin said.

As for marriage equality, Lazin pointed to U.S. District Judge John E. Jones III's decision on May 20 this year to strike down Pennsylvania's ban on same-sex marriage as a key victory. It came after a series of court challenges to the state's 1996 ban on gay unions.

"We are a better people than what these laws represent, and it is time to discard them onto the ash heap of history," Jones wrote in the 39-page opinion. Immediately following his ruling, scores of couples rushed to Philly's City Hall to apply for marriage licenses.

It's a Beautiful Day in the Gayborhood

Located only four blocks south of City Hall, Philly's self-proclaimed "Gayborhood" might as well be miles away. It is an oasis of renovated homes, bistros, and stores. The mood is relaxed, spirited. Couples walk hand-in-hand in conspicuous public displays of affection. Fifteen gay bars are peppered throughout the 'hood - U Bar, Tavern on Camac, Woody's and others. On any given night they are raucous and boisterous, with crowds spilling out into the streets. The Gayborhood has two beloved LGBT community gathering places: William Way Community Center (founded in 1976), on Spruce and 13th, and Giovanni's Room (founded in 1973), on South 12th Street, a bookstore named after James Baldwin's novel.

Acceptance of LGBT residents here has been gradual, one rainbow sign at a time. "The first rainbow street sign was displayed in Philly's Gayborhood in 2007," explained Bruce Yelk, a LGBT activist and Visit Philly public relations director. "It took some political maneuvering. People weren't sure what it meant or why we wanted it, but we prevailed. One sign led to 36 more signs being displayed. There are now 70 rainbow signs hanging in the Gayborhood." In addition to his day job as a public relations maven, Yelk is a promoter of gay-themed events at various venues throughout the Gayborhood.

"Attendance at our events - Mr. Gay Philadelphia, Pink Pub Crawl, Dragapalooza - continues to mushroom," Yelk said. "It's astonishing. We've got happenings and contests and theme nights planned all year long. On any given night there are tea dances, disc jockeys spinning tunes for special themed evenings, special holiday events at Thanksgiving and New Year's. It's about dancing, fun, mingling and making friends, being part of a community. Philly is a go-to gay destination."

Rocky Meets Renoir

Riding the affordably priced commuter rail into Center City from Philly's airport, a stranger across the aisle pointed to the Philadelphia Museum of Art in the distance, proclaiming, "And that's where Rocky raised his fists on the stairs!" The museum, complete with a bronze statue of Sylvester Stallone on its steps, is an anchor of the Parkway Museums District that includes the Barnes Foundation, home to numerous Impressionist paintings spellbinding in their opulence. The Barnes owns more than 180 Renoir paintings, each of them depicting lush scenery and voluptuous women in various stages of undress. A haunting Picasso stares at you as you traverse the gallery, while his response to the world of classical antiquity is on display as a temporary exhibition through August 3.

While not as famous, galleries and smaller museums worth exploring can be found in several of Philly's neighborhoods. I wandered over to the M�tter Museum, founded at the Philadelphia College of Physicians more than 150 years ago. It is a macabre, bizarre place and not for the faint of heart. On display are human skeletons, mummified remains and formaldehyde-preserved fetuses.

One should expect the unexpected in Philly, particularly in the Old City District, where numerous galleries coexist with the ghosts of Philly's Colonial past and curbside pubs, restaurants and gewgaw shops.

Philly is both friendly and feisty. It was here, back in 1776, when the first Philly slogan was born: "We the people." Two hundred-plus years later, that slogan continues to evolve as more Philadelphians - and visitors alike - come here in search of "life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness."

Eat, Stay, Love Philly

I stayed in a most spacious and comfortable room at Hotel Monaco, literally a stone's throw from the Old City District and a short walk to Independence Hall, Chinatown, and many of the downtown/Old City galleries and restaurants. It's a marvelous place to temporarily call home, with windows that afford views of the city and its broad avenues. For a boutique option near nightlife and shopping, consider the Latham Hotel. Located on the coveted Rittenhouse Square, the landmark building dates back to 1907, and you can even bring your pet.

Philadelphia has a robust dining scene far beyond the expected cheesesteak. Consider these options.

Garces Trading Co.
There's a bit of Europe in Washington Square, courtesy of Jose Garces, the Iron Chef himself. Garces Trading Co.'s Old World-inspired menu reflects the flavors of Spain, Italy and France, and it's a lively spot for brunch, happy hour or dinner.

Green Eggs Caf�
There's a reason for the lines at Green Eggs Caf� in the Gayborhood. Their signature red velvet pancakes layered with strawberry mascarpone, strawberries, chocolate chips and Chantilly cream are crave-worthy.

Amis
It's a popular spot for dinner, but brunch at Marc Vetri's Amis is a lesser-known joy. The Sunday brunch menu features signature pastas and the off-the-menu but always available Jersey Cannonball: a combination of a homemade pork roll, eggs and pecorino on a bialy.

Talula's Garden
Whether it's for brunch or dinner, indoors or on the patio, check out the offerings at Talula's Garden. Start off with the sugar-dusted ricotta donuts with huckleberry jam and lemon curd, and then settle back and savor the seasonal, garden-inspired American fare.

Valanni
Offering build-your-own mimosas and legendary Bloody Marys, Valanni is a sought-after watering hole and restaurant featuring tapas and other delights.

Resource Guide

Visit Philadelphia

William Way LGBT Community Center

Giovanni's Room

Parkway Museums District

Philadelphia Museum of Art

The Barnes Foundation

Philly by the Seasons: Summer, Fall & Ongoing Events

GayFest!
August 5-23. GayFest! puts LGBT lives center stage in Philadelphia's only LGBT theater festival. Expect four plays, plus music, dance, performance art and spoken word at theaters and other performances spaces all over town. quinceproductions.com/gayfest.html

Gay Day at the Phillies
August 5, Citizens Bank Park. The Philadelphia Phillies welcome thousands of gay and lesbian fans to Citizens Bank Park each August for Gay Day. phillygaydays.com

The Boys of Summer
August 8-9. The Boys of Summer, Philly Gay Calendar's annual swimsuit party and fundraiser, features live performances, a hot body contest and, of course, lifeguards galore.

OutFest
October 12. Philadelphia celebrates National Coming Out Day with OutFest, a block party in the heart of the Gayborhood that's made up of drag shows, games, bar crawls and shopping. Philadelphia's celebration is the largest Coming Out Day street festival in the world.

Gaybowl
October 9-12. A great weekend of flag football is in store when Gay Bowl 2014 brings 40 of the most competitive teams from around the nation to Fairmount Park.

Dollhouse Revue
Drag star Mimi Imfurst of "RuPaul's Drag Race" headlines the Dollhouse Revue with her cast of Dollstars on Thursdays starting at 11:00 p.m. at Voyeur Nightclub.

Drag Show at Bob and Barbara's
Bob and Barbara's hosts its legendary drag show every Thursday night with the famous Citywide Special: a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon and a shot of Jim Beam for just $3.

Our Night Out is a gathering of LGBT professionals that gives people the chance to network with colleagues and friends at monthly happy hours all over the city.

Gamers grab their daubers and head straight to Gay Bingo, a monthly fundraiser hosted by hilarious drag queens known as the BVDs (Bingo Verifying Divas) at the Gershman Y. All proceeds benefit the AIDS Fund.