Italian Inspiration: Pluma

Matthew Wexler READ TIME: 4 MIN.

This article is part of EDGE's Jewelers to the Stars series, sponsored by Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company. To learn more about how you can protect your most valuable possessions, click here.

If you've ever been to Italy, your sensory memories may include gelato and pizza Napoletana, but if you want to retain a bit beyond the bite, there is no better keepsake than a piece of exquisite jewelry from one of the country's famous artisans.

Creative Director Brendan Cannon was so inspired by Italy's craftsmanship that in 2013 he partnered with T-Project, an Italian network of producers and suppliers to create Pluma.

"Before meeting with the manufacturers to start the design process, I explored Italy to visually 'inhale' the balance of color and scale, from the natural landscape to the architecture to even local street style. Italy has long been the birthplace of the most luxurious fashion brands and trends, so I wanted to pay homage to that," says Cannon.

A Global Perspective

Over the years, Cannon has accumulated a vast array of experiences, beginning as a costume designer and stylist for a worldwide National Geographic launch with visionary creative director Patrick McDonough of PMcD Design to gigs with such style-defining publications as Vogue and Vanity Fair. Many shoots later, Cannon felt like jewelry would be a logical next step. His travels through Tuscany and encounters with family-owned, specialty factories served as a springboard for his inspiration, along with some soul-searching.

Cannon, who identifies as gay, believes being true to himself has been an important stepping-stone towards greater creative expression.

"In light of the recent ruling by SCOTUS, I am extremely happy with my country right now," says Cannon. "There has been so much hate and bigotry towards the gay community in recent times; now there seems to be a light at the end of the tunnel. I had a very hard time coming out as gay, as many people often do; and was very hard on myself as a result; and had a tough time being accepted by my family. Once I overcame all my obstacles, I really thrived and became who I was supposed to be. My family is great and extremely supportive and I have a really great relationship with my parents, which is so important in your growth as a gay person, I believe."

Inspiration Becomes Reality

Cannon travels to Italy for inspiration, where all of Pluma's pieces are made. "Italian women have such a refined and modern fashion sense and always tend to be very put together and accessorized," says Cannon, who also looks to cultural icons such as Iris Apfel, Coco Chanel, and Isabella Blow, as well as old couture shows and contemporary street style.

Pluma's current collections feature 24-karat gold-plated brass, 24-karat plated rhodium, and resin. Each offers its own unique visual identity and also presents challenges for the designer and manufacturer.

"It took some time to figure out the properties and capabilities of each of these materials," says Cannon. "Resin has such a chic, Old World Italian quality to it and brass and rhodium can be very sleek and modern."

Collaborations and Giving Back

A longtime friend of Jason Wu, Cannon partnered with the fashion designer on a gold oro chain for this pre-fall 2013 collection, which also featured several Pluma pieces for his lookbook. A dedication collection was developed for spring 2015 with stunning results, "The best thing about working with Jason is how specific and clear he is with his vision and his brand," says Cannon.

One of Pluma's newest pieces is featured on Puerto Rican fashion model Joan Smalls for the cover of Vogue Italia Alta Moda (photographed by Steven Klein and styled by Patti Wilson.) Cannon will be showing Pluma's latest collections at Capsule Paris and ENK in August.

While success has come with a lot of hard work and innovation, Cannon is also committed to philanthropic efforts, having worked closely with organizations including St. Jude Children's Research Hospital, the Red Cross, and Canine Companions. A major charity initiative is planned for 2016, and if Pluma's designs are any indication, it's going to have quite an impact.


by Matthew Wexler

Matthew Wexler is EDGE's Senior Editor, Features & Branded Content. More of his writing can be found at www.wexlerwrites.com. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @wexlerwrites.

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