New Orleans Journey: Past, Present and Future

Growing up in a small Cajun town west of New Orleans made every visit special. I was lucky to have parents who loved the "big city," so we were there all the time. We'd pile into the car practically every weekend and hit our favorite places, most of which thankfully are still around today -- a testament to the staying power of joints that do it right from the get-go.

First stop, juicy burgers or giant, fluffy omelettes at the Camellia Grill, a local diner turned institution since it opened in 1946. Then we'd drop by Maple Street Book Shop to browse the titles, and sometimes hop on a streetcar to joyride under the shade of St. Charles Avenue's massive live oaks. We'd stroll along Magazine Street or visit the Audubon Zoo to check out the white tigers and slurp sno-balls.

New York is my home today, but I still head south regularly to catch up on my favorite city. The difference between then and now is being both gay and of drinking age: two highly agreeable traits for fun in the Big Easy. And while I have my staple spots, there is a never-ending stream of new favorites to discover on every visit.

Visiting Home

Finding a good place to crash is easy in a tourist-heavy city like New Orleans, where accommodations abound. A French Quarter hotel is the perfect plan for first-timers who plan to check out the legendary cocktail scene every night. A big but well-priced hotel like the Royal Sonesta is a good choice, and not just for its rooftop pool, while the more quaint Place d'Armes appeals for its shady courtyard, pool and prime location by St. Louis Cathedral. Cross Canal Street and you'll discover a whole slew of options, including the classic five-star Windsor Court Hotel and the newly rebranded, $29 million Le M�ridien.

I prefer the gay-owned Burgundy Bed and Breakfast because it's tucked among the quieter residences of the Marigny, giving me a faux home for a spell. Plus it's walking distance from the Country Club, the Bywater's long-running, flirty LGBT oasis complete with saltwater pool and hot tub, restaurant and lounge, Thursday ladies' nights, and boozy weekend brunches.

There are many places to wander around the east side of the Quarter, starting with the always lively Frenchman Street. Its restaurants and clubs seduce the senses with their freshly cooked seafood aromas and live music spilling out, top among them the Marigny Brasserie and Spotted Cat Music Club.

Classic New Orleans

There's rarely a trip home without passing through the French Market to stock up on souvenirs and Cajun curios, from carnival masks to Mardi Gras beads to alligator heads. The market shoots right onto Decatur Street, where to this day I never miss a break at Cafe du Monde for beignets and a caf� au lait.

The photo opps can go on all day from here, but it's the iconic image of Jackson Square from the Riverwalk that beguiles tourists, even those of us who have taken that shot a thousand times. Along with the square, I've been known to stop for a tarot card or palm reading, if not to check in with my future then to help keep the freelance fortune tellers in business. They are part of the mystique that keeps the Quarter's voodoo charm swirling.

The city's famous open-container law is a standing declaration of Big Easy priorities. If I want a true classic, Pat O'Brien's hurricane is truly like no other: sweet and swiftly intoxicating. When I need a dose of community, Good Friends, Caf� Lafitte in Exile and the Bourbon Pub and Parade are my staple gay bars. Otherwise, I pull up a chair by the open doors at Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar to watch the crowds from the oldest watering hole in the city, dating back to the 1730s.

All that drinking requires regular eating, and any New Orleanian can rattle off places for killer po'boys. But the best of them don't come from places with white tablecloths -- they come from little delis with back counters. In the quarter, my favorite is Verti Marte on Royal Street, where fried shrimp and oyster po'boys on the softest French bread are served to go, along with daily specials and unbelievable homemade desserts. Others swear by Johnny's Po-Boys on St. Louis Street, but that's a debate nobody should take on.

A fan of quality dives, I'll also get seafood platters, fried chicken and Creole standards from the no-frills Fiorella's Caf�. This restaurant serves up a sense of old New Orleans, with the kind of friendly vibe that could keep you chatting at the bar all night.