Mastering Boston's Bar Scene

Boston may be known for its beer (Sam Adams anyone?), but America's revolutionary heartland is in the throes of a wine and cocktail resurgence.

On the wine scene, the Master Sommelier designation is a rare honor, with just 147 wine professionals with that special title spanning North and South America. This year, there is now one -- that's uno, un, ein -- in Boston: Brahm Callahan, wine director at Grill 23.

The distinction between a Master Sommelier (MS) vs. a Master of Wine (MW) is key: It's the difference between serving vs. drinking. A MS such as Callahan is not only trained and certified in wine, but also in other alcoholic beverages such as spirits and beers, as well as supporting services like cigars.

EDGE caught up with Callahan recently at Grill 23 //grill23.com/, the renowned Boston steakhouse, to chat about Boston's resurgent beverage scene, the growth in the city's wine knowledge, and his other favorite watering holes.

Advice From a Master

EDGE: The traditional wine regions of France, Italy and California have always been popular, especially among steakhouse customers. What other trends are you seeing in wine consumption?

BC: While places like Greece, Hungary and Portugal are producing exciting wines from both international and local varietals, I like to explore new regions within those established countries. For example, if you like Barolo, you will love the wines from the Valtelina in Lombardy. If you like Champagne (and who doesn't?), you will love the wines of Franciacorte, a region dedicated to sparkling wines that are being produced at a very high level.

EDGE: Grill 23 is at its heart a steak place with an extensive wine list that obviously focuses on a lot of big reds. What's your most inspired food-wine pairing?

BC: Dry Riesling and our 100-day aged Ribeye. What a pair. The Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune 1996 literally stole the show.

EDGE: As a Master Sommelier, you focus on a lot more than just wine. You've recently rolled out a premium cigar program at Grill 23, the first of its kind in Boston. While customers can't smoke at the restaurant, they can get the cigars to go.

BC: The goal is always to go the extra mile. We are focusing on premium, unique offerings with a variety of flavor profiles, tobacco blends, styles of cigars and smoke times as an added level of hospitality for our guests.

EDGE: Can you share the recipe for your "Local Hemingway" cocktail?

BC: 2 oz. Bully Boy Rum
� oz. Luxardo Maraschino Liquor
� oz. grapefruit juice
Splash of lime juice
Shake and serve up in a martini glass.

EDGE: What's next on the Boston beverage scene?

BC: What we need next is a better wine-focused restaurant that is more casual. Not a wine bar, but something relaxed with great food and a killer list.

Boston Bars The Master Bellies Up To

Eastern Standard
Extensive house-developed cocktails and beer list in addition to wine. Bustling French brasserie look and feel.
528 Commonwealth Avenue

Grill 23
Dark paneling, downstairs bar is a spirited scene. Upstairs, the ambiance is a clubby sports bar.
161 Berkeley Street

The Hawthorne
Bar, saloon, tavern. Young, vibrant crowd.
500A Commonwealth Avenue

J.M. Curley
Gastropub, highly rated burgers and fried pickles. The house rules say it all.
21 Temple Place

No. 9 Park
Elegant, understated, Chef Barbara Lynch is still hot. Bar Manager Ryan Lotz hosts a monthly Sunday afternoon cocktail class.
9 Park Street