August 28, 2015
Southwestern Style: A Celebration of Native American Jewelry
Matthew Wexler READ TIME: 5 MIN.
This article is part of EDGE's Jewelers to the Stars series, sponsored by Jewelers Mutual. To learn more about how you can protect your most valuable possessions, click here.
Reason alone to visit Albuquerque, New Mexico, Skip Maisel's is a cultural institution in the acquisition of fine Native American jewelry. And if you think that only means turquoise and silver -- think again. Maisel has spent more than 40 years developing relationships with pueblos and artisans throughout the region in order to bring the finest quality and most diverse collection of handcrafted pieces to his customers.
The history of Skip Maisel's is a family affair, dating back to Skip's father, Morris, who moved from New York City and landed a job with the Western Union telegraph office in Silver City. After a stint at a local bank, Morris opened a jewelry shop across from the train station and eventually built the store on Central Avenue in Albuquerque's bustling downtown district. At its height during the mid century, Morris employed upwards of 300 artisans who created handcrafted pieces in the spirit of their Native American heritage, but upon his death, the business and all of its inventory (but not the building) was sold to a competitor.
Decades and two generations later, Morris's grandson continued the legacy. Skip had been traveling among the reservations for more than 15 years, acquiring and selling fine crafts throughout the country. The old building on Central Avenue beckoned him back. After some renovations, Skip slowly began to use the space once again as a retail outlet, continuing to expand as its presence and notoriety grew.
"I've been in business about 40 years. I'd just go around to doors and see who was doing pottery, making jewelry," recollects Skip. "After all these years that they continue to get better and better at their craft."
Skip no longer needs to travel to acquire his inventory. These days, both established as well as up and coming jewelry makers come to him to showcase their work. But in the tradition established by his grandfather, he still employees several silversmiths who produce original pieces. In addition, the store features an extensive estate collection, which includes vintage pieces that would be the envy of any collector.
Skip Maisel's
510 Central Avenue SW
Albuquerque, NM
505-242-6526
www.skipmaisels.com
The Legacy Continues
Decades and two generations later, Morris's grandson continued the legacy. Skip had been traveling among the reservations for more than 15 years, acquiring and selling fine crafts throughout the country. The old building on Central Avenue beckoned him back. After some renovations, Skip slowly began to use the space once again as a retail outlet, continuing to expand as its presence and notoriety grew.
"I've been in business about 40 years. I'd just go around to doors and see who was doing pottery, making jewelry," recollects Skip. "After all these years that they continue to get better and better at their craft."
Skip no longer needs to travel to acquire his inventory. These days, both established as well as up and coming jewelry makers come to him to showcase their work. But in the tradition established by his grandfather, he still employees several silversmiths who produce original pieces. In addition, the store features an extensive estate collection, which includes vintage pieces that would be the envy of any collector.
What's Your Style?
With a keen eye and in-depth understanding of Native American cultures, Skip is quick to point out that each pueblo offers unique design characteristics that set its jewelry apart from others. Here are a few key characteristics:
Zuni
The Zuni pueblo is located just west of Albuquerque. Zuni jewelry often features a central turquoise stone or other type of shell and incorporates needlepoint inlay work with no silver in between.
Santo Domingo
The Santo Domingo pueblo has embraced and retained its ceremonies and traditions. Jewelry often features a larger bead carved out of a nugget, with the addition of colored stones, as well as heishi beads, made from small bits of turquoise or ground shells.
Navajo
The Navajo Nation spans Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico, encompassing more than 27,000 square miles. That powerful impact is indicative in their jewelry design, too. Expect to see bigger designs, heavy textures, purposefully rough-cut stone, and satin silver finishes on bracelets and buckles.
Hopi
Located in northeastern Arizona, the Hopi Tribe is famous for silver overlay. The intricate technique involves layering sheets of silver that have been embossed and cut. The soldered pieces are then polished to a satin finish for a dramatic final product.
More to Discover
Skip Maisel shares the jewelry spotlight with another Albuquerque legend: Gertrude Zachary. Originally from Germany, Zachary arrived in the States as a young child and eventually made her way west in her early 30s. She fell in love with elements of Native American design but saw that there was room in the market for more contemporary interpretations.
Much like Skip Maisel's legacy, Zachary's daughter, Erica Hatchell, now oversees the jewelry empire, which includes two jewelry outlets, antique store, special event space, and online store. The artisans at Gertrude Zachary are world-renowned for their intricate inlay work, which can be found in rings, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, and more.
Gertrude Zachary
www.gertrudezachary.com
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Matthew Wexler is EDGE's Senior Editor, Features & Branded Content. More of his writing can be found at www.wexlerwrites.com. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @wexlerwrites.