June 18, 2016
Suited (HBO)
Roger Walker-Dack READ TIME: 2 MIN.
This is the story of Bindle and Keep, a small tailoring company in New York that is part of a new and growing breed of clothiers who cater specifically to the transgender community.
Whilst transitioning is mainly about having one's body brought into line with a person's true identity, one of the side effects is that trans men and women find that traditional gender specific clothes do not suit them and their new lives. That was the case for Rae Tutera when she transitioned from Rachel and approached Daniel Friedman about making him a custom suit. Rae was so very impressed that he asked Daniel to take him on as an apprentice tailor to learn the trade, and he never left.
Five years later, this unlikely pair (he's a straight Jewish man) have carved out quite a reputation, resulting in a steady flow of potential customers from all over the country making tracks to their Brooklyn studio. This rather wonderful new documentary from Lena Dunham's boom operator-turned-first time director Jason Benjamin focuses very much on the visits of various customers to see the tailors in action.
There is Derek from the Appalachians, who is just about to get married and who gets his new brother-in-law to accompany him; Everett, an African-American who has just started transitioning and wants a suit for interviews as, although he has passed his law degree with honors, he is struggling to land a job, having been told by prospective employers, "We cannot deal with the whole transgender issue!"
Then there is cab driver Mel, who has had top surgery, but doesn't want to be identified as a male, either, and wants a suit for her 40th Birthday; plus, Jillian, a very successful older lawyer who is about to appear in appeals court and wants a suit to match the importance of the occasion. However, the most heart-warming story was that of Aiden, a 14-year-old trans boy from Austin who has travelled up with his very supportive grandmother to get a suit made for his Bar Mitzvah.
Each of the clients talks about their journeys to this point in their lives, and even Derek, with his very understanding parents, stresses that it has not been easy; at least by the time they enter the door to Bindle & Keep, those traumas are behind them. What strikes them, and us, is that Rae and Daniel have developed the deep understanding they need to know exactly what their clients hope to achieve with their new clothes. Watching their faces of sheer joy when they finally try on their outfits, we all realize that they have got it right.
Debuts June 20 on HBO
Roger Walker-Dack, a passionate cinephile, is a freelance writer, critic and broadcaster and the author/editor of three blogs. He divides his time between Miami Beach and Provincetown.