August 26, 2020
In COVID Era, Croatia Becomes Enticing European Vacation Option for US Travelers
David Perry READ TIME: 5 MIN.
On July 10. Croatia flouted European Union rules and began admitting American tourists. Mind you, it's not like the floodgates have opened; incoming Yankees have to provide not only a negative COVID-19 test no older than 48 hours but also proof of fully-paid accommodation. But clear those hurdles and you'll land in a nation that combines Slavic sophistication with Venetian romance. Not bad for a country only 29 years old.
Grand Split
For all you sun-worshippers, forego the capital of Zagreb and head for Split, basking on the cerulean shores of the Adriatic. Roman emperor Diocletian fell in love with the place so much he built his walled-in post-retirement hidey-hole there, contently growing cabbages (not lying) till he got peacefully planted himself in 311 AD. And then all hell broke loose.
Roman refugees fleeing barbarian invasions in the sixth and seventh centuries sought refuge behind Diocletian's Palace, recycling the seven-acre mega-villa into a particularly cramped town of 9,000...and a mishmash of hovels, workshops and mansions barely separated by an organic doodle of alleys. Diocletian's tomb became a cathedral, his courtyard the town square, his basement the cesspit (since cleaned up as a museum, and is the setting for Daenarys Targaryen's dungeons on "Game of Thrones").
Only after 1420, when Venice took over, did the city expand with mouthwatering Italian architecture, but the Splicani never lost their ability to maximize square footage. I came across old "trgs," or tiny plazas, taken over as outdoor dining for modern tavernas. The waitstaff at Konoba Korta
I set up shop at the Le Meridien Lav hotel
Gay life is still finding its footing in Croatia, but Split has a burgeoning scene and its own Pride. The latter is every June
But Split was a gateway in another sense. Just off the coast is Hvar.
Island Hopping
More than 1,000 islands spangle Croatia's coast; on Hvar you'll find Hvar Grad, one of the most beautiful, most idyllic fishing villages in Europe -- which is saying something. Like Split, Hvar Grad was also part of the Venetian Republic. Wandering the limestone streets, you could think you were in Italy, and a lot of the mannerisms from "La Serenissima" live on: overlooked by lavender terraces and the old Tvrdava Spanjola fortress, life by day revolves around the Pjaca, the huge town plaza fronted by the rustic St. Stjepan Cathedral. By night, the tavernas spring to life.
My hotel, the super-mod Pharos
Under normal circumstances, between June and August, Hvar Grad mutates into the 24-hour party polis of the Mediterranean, with ferryloads of beautiful, EDM-addicted hard-bodies swamping every inch. As COVID-19 put the kibosh on large gatherings, kiss that fleshy fantasy good-bye, but all is not lost: Hvar Grad is, after all, right out of a Venetian wet dream, with the bonus of over 300 days of sunshine per year. Wander the streets, soak up the sun, try the food, cruise the marina-side bars, and a good time will be had by all. Hvar's seasonal nature and small size mean there is no "official" gay hotspot, although Carpe Diem
Getting There
Split is serviced by Split Airport
David Perry is a freelance travel and news journalist. In addition to EDGE, his work has appeared on ChinaTopix, Thrillist, and in Next Magazine and Steele Luxury Travel among others. Follow him on Twitter at @GhastEald.