September 17, 2005
For the Love of Denim: The Best Jeans for Fall
Dino-Ray Ramos READ TIME: 10 MIN.
We all know the regular jean brands donning the asses of everyone on the streets: True Religion, Seven for All Mankind, Diesel, Levi's and all those others, but how about something a little different? Yes, there are actually brands of jeans that some people overlook--and the best time to stock up on jeans is the fall!
Of course, some of those better-known names will get mentioned, but why follow the mindless people hypnotized by multi-million dollar ad campaigns from the Gap and Express when you can actually seek out those jeans that make you look like a real rock star?
When in doubt, go Levi’s... Strauss
Without a doubt, denim is hot--no matter what the season. Often times it's the price and value that you look for--price being the operative word for many. For those who aren't all about the jeans that cost as much as your rent, check out your local Target (or other one-stop shop stores).
Who cares if David Beckham doesn't shop there (or does he?) Some people live extravagant lifestyles in different ways. That's why Levi Strauss has created a new, fashionable 'Signature' line that gives a sophisticated urban elite look that doesn't break the bank.
The collection offers a wide assortment of products, but of course, the jeans are the shining stars. Vintage and topped off with a premium, antiqued finish, the jeans have a worn-in look that isn't too much or too little. For men, the jeans come in the basic loose, regular and relaxed fits. For women, they can enjoy bootcut, straight leg and relaxed. All carry nuances of high fashion and go for about $19-30 a pop. How can you beat that?
Available at Target and Kmart for under $30. For more info: www.levistrausssignature.com
Saddle up with Wrangler
Wrangler has always been synonymous with denim. Their look may be a little more laid-back and undesigner-like, but their numerous styles are extremely practical. I know what you're thinking: Marlboro man and a big black Stetson. Being in Texas, I see a lot of them.
By the looks of some, their skin-tight style has the potential to make you sterile--but it doesn't have to be that way. Wrangler also makes jeans that aren't primarily aimed for those who saddle up and chew tobacco. In addition to some of their more loose fits, there's the hipper 20x line. Carrying the trademark Wrangler name, these jeans lean towards the urban cowboy. They are low rise, bootcut and available in that popular worn-out look.
Available at K Mart and Sears. For more info, www.wrangler.com
Nautica gets a little rebellious
For all you rebels out there, perhaps the Nautica Jeans Company is the way to go. This fall they give props to the Golden Age of Hollywood with a vintage jean that invokes the spirit of Marlon Brando and Jimmy Dean (the actor, not the sausage). Worn-in, silhouette-adhering and topped off with leather back patched pockets; NJC new vintage line comes in unique distressed finishes such as vintage dark, sand and vintage green light.
For a more traditional look, NJC has their popular easy fit jean- perfect for any occasion. Subdued, yet classy, the jeans are versatile for a night on the town or casual Fridays at work.
Available at better department stores everywhere. For more info, www.nautica.com
Mavi introduces us to Hunter and Matt
Mavi may be a staple for urban hipster gear, but this international company has one solid basis: their jeans. Founded by Sait Akarlilar in Turkey, the company has been the purveyor of denim style for years. In their latest collection, Mavi (literal translation: "blue") takes their innovation to the next level with a variety of new styles with very interesting names (i.e. Marco, Max and Mitch).
Of all these new cuts, the Hunter and Matt are in the denim forefront. The Hunter gives a low-rise straight leg look, while the Matt style is boot cut with a mid-rise waist. Stitched with the scripted trademark "M" on the back pockets, these thematic jeans start at $78 a pair. Cleverly washed and intricately detailed, each pair is suitable for any personality.
Available at Nordstrom, Macy's and www.mavi.com
Evisu: A Denim God
Speaking of distinction, Evisu Genes takes individuality to the new level. Hidehiko Yamane's uber luxurious company takes the word, "vintage" very seriously. More like a work of art than a simple pair of jeans, Yamane's creations meticulously loomed denim wear exceeds the boundaries of individuality.
Utilizing authentic and out-of-date machinery, Evisu's construction process is probably the most particularized out of all jean companies. The weaving, the dyeing, the hand-painted seagull on each back pocket--there has to be a lot of patience when making a pair. The result from all this hard work is a pair of jeans that holds its own personality--literally. Like a flurry of denim snowflakes, each pair fades and ripens with low-key patterns in its own special way--but only grab a pair of these jeans when you are ready to splurge. I won't tell you exact prices, but I will tell you that they named the company after the Japanese Buddhist God of Money... think about it.
Available at Urban Outfitters, Nordstrom and www.evisu.com
Paper that you can wear
On the brink of its seventh birthday, Paper Denim & Cloth may hold similarities of the stylishly detailed handiwork that Evisu swears by, but their look is of a totally different animal. Fusing Japanese and American yarns, their denim is a virtual template of style. Stitched with perfection and dyed with appeal, the jeans are nothing but a denim masterpiece.
To keep things fresh, Paper Denim & Cloth tags each pair of jeans with an identifying number. After that style has reached 50,000 pairs, they discontinue it. Based on this "collector's item" methodology, it's no wonder why they average $190 a pair. Even so, the quality is well worth it.
Available at Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks 5th Avenue and www.paperdenim.com (coming soon)
The Importance of Being "Earnest"
As a former designer for Paper Denim & Cloth, it's only obvious that Scott Morrison would be a guru of denim, which is why he decided to venture off on his own with the label, Earnest Sewn. Much like his former employer, he fuses American and Japanese elements, but gives them an aggressive flair.
From the preciseness of the pockets to the screen-printed logo, Earnest jeans fit to a tee. To get this flattering style, they scour the world for the best quality denim. After that, it's no-holds-barred fun. Whether it is pumice stone washes or softening sandblasts, Earnest Sewn uses very unique methods in giving the jeans their chic look. Probably the most notable is the way they bake (yes, bake) the manually distressed jeans with an artificial leg to give it a real (and I mean REAL) "worn-in" look. It doesn't get any more authentic than that.
Available at Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom. For more info, www.earnestsewn.com
Organically "Loomy" Jeans
There's the extravagant, and then there is the organically extravagant.
Even though Loomstate is more suitable for those granola eating, Birkenstock wearing, Whole Foods shopping individuals, their jeans still have mass appeal. This fall, they introduce a whole new line of fabulous organic corduroys and hoodies- but I digress. The focus here is the denim.
The jeans may look ordinary, but they are made out of 100% organic cotton that doesn't make Mother Nature mad. Not only do they pass a smog test, but they're fun too! Their pockets are adorned with polka dots, while a nice, friendly tag on the zipper reminds you when "Nature Calls."
Loomstate jeans don't necessarily scream "Save the Earth!" but they are an engaging piece of indirect environmentally conscious couture. Bottom line: you can look sexy and care for the environment at the same time.
Available at Barneys, D-Play, National Jean Play and Map. More info online at www.loomstate.org
Sasson goes "Yanuk"
Remember that brand of jeans from the 70's that was called Sasson? You know--the one with the hand that constructed the "O"? Well if you don't, then you must have been living under a rock--but there is hope. Paul Guez, the designer of those retro jeans is back, this time under the alias 'Yanuk.'
To keep up with the times, the jeans have a wear-and-tear look that doesn't look like the jeans exploded. Instead, it's low key and more realistic.
Initially, the company offered a standard women's collection--slimmed down cuts that morph into the curves of the female form, while minor details such as the triangle belt loops, echo its predecessor. After that success, their vintage style spilled over into the menswear section with raw, 100% indigo dyed, reverse sewn denim.
To elevate their innovativeness, they recently introduced Bamboo denim; a unique blend of cotton and--you guessed it--bamboo! Relaxed and as soft as the gentlest toilet paper, Yanuk is a jean that maintains a distinguishably genuine vintage look.
Available at Nordstrom and eluxury.com . For more info, www.yanukdenim.com
Dino-Ray is a Bay Area-based journalist (both freelance and full-time) who is a film fanatic, fashion snob, hip-hop head, pop culture junkie and everything in between. Still not convinced? Check out his blog