Fashion World Honors 9/11 As Shows Go On

The fashion world stood still when the World Trade Centers came down in the middle of New York Fashion Week a decade ago, but the shows went on Sunday with moments of reflection and remembrance from the tents at Lincoln Center to venues within distance of ground zero.

"On a day like this, we're all American," Bono said after the spring preview downtown for Edun, the African-inspired brand he founded with his wife, Ali Hewson.

In an intimate hall at the New York Public Library's flagship, guests at Victoria Beckham's show twice stopped in their tracks on the way to their seats for moments of silence - one for each tower - as scheduled by the designer.

All Fashion Week events are proceeding as planned through Thursday, in contrast to the jarring halt of the September previews after the terrorist attacks, said Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, Lincoln Center's fashion director.

On the front row at Lela Rose, she described the conflicting mood on the tragedy's anniversary: "Today is a day that is very exciting, but there is also a certain calmness, you know? Everyone can sort of just look at each other today and know exactly what each other is thinking."

Linda Fargo, senior vice president of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman, wore a patriotic blue blouse and red trousers on the Beckham front row. "I didn't expect to be so emotional today, but I am."

Designer Tracy Reese had been scheduled for her first New York Fashion Week show on Sept. 11, 2001, and is proud to mark the anniversary at the tents this year. "At the end of the day, New York is unlike any other city in the world. Everyone worked together to pick ourselves back up."

Several designers said they've made donations to various organizations in memory of the dead, including Derek Lam to the National September 11 Memorial & Museum, and Donna Karan to Action America, an initiative to turn Sept. 11 into a day of positive action and volunteerism.

"We remember that day 10 years ago that changed our city forever," Karan said in her show notes. "We remember the courage, the inspiration, the compassion. How we came together, reaffirming our strength to the world. There truly is no place anywhere like our beloved city, New York. Our inspiration."

After eight days of spring previews in New York, shows move to London, then Milan and Paris.

VICTORIA BECKHAM

Her crisp, clean and sophisticated collection showed off her skills as a dressmaker.

Beckham added several outerwear pieces to the repertoire - including hooded satin jackets - but she mostly stepped back from the looser silhouette that she experimented with last season.

Even the dresses with pleated skirts were built with tight bodices.

Beckham has made her hallmark out of well-cut geometric clothes, and it's OK for her to stick with it. It's the style that suits her best, anyway, as she showed off her post-baby figure in a zip-back shift while took it all in from the front row.

In recent seasons, Beckham narrated from a perch next to the runway in an intimate townhouse venue. On Sunday, however, she was quiet in the library's long, narrow Astor Hall.

The first looks to come out were asymmetrical navy coats with exposed zipper hardware, followed up by modern mod shifts - the best one with a narrow sheer panel at the dropped waist, separating the navy top from black bottom.

Beckham told two color stories - one navy and black offset with gray and soft lilac; the other also rooted in navy but paired with optic white and orange. A slim-cut orange sheath with a halter neckline and thick, white luggage-style straps is sure to get some buzz.

DONNA KARAN

The heart and soul of Karan's DKNY brand is New York, and on this anniversary of the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks, she paid tribute to her hometown using one of its most recognizable symbols as backdrop - the yellow taxi.

Models in loose shirtdresses, sheer sundresses, floppy hats and knee-length board shorts faced a bank of photographers with the doors of the Chelsea studio flung open to display a perfectly positioned taxi.

But New York is only a thread in the nation's larger fabric, Karan said in her notes. She offered several cheerful looks in bold red, white and blue floral print. There were red-and-blue striped outfits, too.

Karan alternated between classic sportswear styles, like a navy blazer, and new silhouettes - a flowing "step" skirt, with a clearly defined shorter front hemline, seeming to be her favorite.

CARMEN MARC VALVO

He had young, fun and relaxed in mind for his beach-inspired collection.

Valvo's notes included a poem he wrote for the season - "summer breezes, sea sprays, and salt water taffy" with some "seaside cottages and ballroom dances" thrown in.

For the girl heading to the Hamptons, he included an ebony cap sleeve one-piece and a champagne pearl embroidered tank dress. His signature eyewear gave the models a beach-ready look.

For evening, there was a stunning jasmine silk organza shirt paired with a jasmine sequined ball skirt topped with an ebony tuxedo vest that would kill on the red carpet. Many pieces had thick belts, including a black striped cotton canvas romper paired with a bright white one.

But the long dresses took the show, including one in pleated satin with a sun ray and another in pink lemonade silk satin that drew gasps and applause from the crowd.

Vanessa Williams and champion figure skater Sasha Cohen were on the front row at the Nasdaq building in Times Square.

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

Strapless and sporty? No problem.

She incorporated the athletic trend already tangible during this round of previews. Never mind that she's known mostly as a source of red-carpet gowns.

There were worthwhile design elements to borrow from activewear, she said, including sporty necklines and aerodynamic striping and slashing. Her runway had a cobalt-blue racing stripe down the middle.

She also tapped into the popular optimistic color palette that editors, stylists and retailers are getting used to seeing for next season.

"I used a lot of vibrant yellows, as you can see. A lot of blues," Lhuillier said.

The sunshine yellow strapless draped trumpet gown - fitted but belled at the bottom - is for the woman who wants to turn heads. Another yellow eveningwear look was an off-the-shoulder draped gown, and there also was a yellow trench with black lace panels. Who needs red to stop traffic?

Lhuillier used intricate seaming - sometimes accented with sequins or leather - to further flatter the physique.

Mandy Moore was on the front row. She said she was lucky to have her "Monique moment" earlier this year when the designer created two gowns for her to wear at the Oscars. "I am such a huge, forever fan of hers."

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Associated Press Writers Summer Moore, Nicole Evatt and Leanne Italie in New York contributed to this report.